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Lhotse Expedition

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Tour Type

Daily Tour

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Group Size

16 people

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Mt. Lhotse well known as “south peak” and part of the Everest massif is the fourth highest mountain peak in the earth with an altitude of 8516m. Lhotse has 3 summits, main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m   and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m.  Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mt. Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face. Lhotse is however famous for its tremendous and dramatic south face. It is extremely difficult climb and rarely attempted.   The section during the climb, which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous, is the Khumbu Icefall. Both Mt Everest and Lhotse share the same base camp. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world

The groups were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. When the team noted the coordinate of 27°57’45” N 86°56’03’’ E was the real summit location, south col become the normal climbing routes. The caravan route of Mt. Lhotse Expedition is the same as the route with Mt. Everest. All expedition team of Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse reach just below the South col on the Lhotse face and set up camp I, II,

Expedition encounters many obstruction including high altitudes, harsh weather conditions and even sheer exhaustion. We believe our planning, logistics, staffing and experience coupled with your enthusiasm, patience, and perseverance would help you achieve your ultimate dream.

Mount Lhotse (8516M/27,940ft.) was first climbed on May 18th,1956 when the climbers Mr. Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland. In 1955 the International Himalayan Expedition teamled by Norman Dyhrenfurth reached 8100m on Lhotse. The team included two Austrians climbers Erwin Schneider, Ernst Senn, and two Swiss Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel. They were accompanied by almost 200 local porters and 8 climbing Sherpas guideAfter a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention the Northwest face of Lhotse.

Lhotse South Col Route Camps:

Khmbu Ice fall:Once past the Khumbu icefall the route is not that challenging technically and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb in Lhotse. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpas guides (Ice fall enactor) set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.

Base Camp: (5200m/17,060ft.)Lhotse base camp is located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful and is surrounded by Pumori, Lola and Nuptse, The Khumbu Icefall experiences warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.

Camp I: (5900m/19,357ft.)Reaching C1 is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation. Once you have proper acclimation our plans calls for us to move up and down directly from camp II for safely.

Camp II: (6400m/20,998ft.)Camp II is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of West ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp that you will spend most time after base camp.

Camp III: (7100m/23,294ft.)Climbing the Lhotse Face to camp III is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to camp III, but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.

Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.)Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. Camp IV is the last camp, it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp IV: The Yellow Band a layer of marble, phyllite and semischist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.

Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.)11-16 hoursThe last section of the climb from camp III to camp IV takes 11-16 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80 degree bulge. The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face, before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point

Trip Highlights :

  • Summit fourth Highest Peak in the world
  • Striking peak with a tremendous south face
  • One of the steepest faces in the world:
  • Three summits: Lhotse Main (8,516 meters), Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters), and Lhotse East (8,413 meters)
  • Challenging climb in Everest region

Trip Price Includes :

  • All the airport and hotel transfer as per the itinerary.
  • Twin share accommodation at a 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Kathmandu hotel accommodation inclusive bed and breakfast as per the itinerary.
  • Agency’s trekking bag/duffel bag, t-shirt and trekking map
  • Essential trekking permits and official paper works.
  • Domestic flight tickets and surface transportation.
  • Assistant trek leaders (4 trekkers: 1 assistant guide)
  • Sherpa porters to carry luggage (2 trekkers:1 porter)
  • All the required supporting porter to carry foods, camping equipment such as tents, kitchen utensils etc.
  • All the meals (Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner) and hot tea coffee during the trekking and tented camp.
  • Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) / Gamow Bag (A life saving device in case of Acute Mountain Sickness) along with the comprehensive First Aid Kit
  • All government and local taxes.
  • All temples/monuments entrance fees.

Trip Price Excludes :

  • Nepalese visa fee
  • International Airfare and Airport Tax
  • Any Private Expenses
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Tips to the guides and porter
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Day 1 : Arrival in kathmandu

Day 2 : Document applying for expedition permit

Day 3 : Details information and final preparation for the Trip

Day 4 : Fly Kathmandu to Lukla

Day 5 : Trek to Namche Bazar

Day 6 : Rest day at Namche Bazar for acclimatization

Day 7 : Trek to Thyangboche

Day 8 : Trek to Dingboche

Day 9-13 : Acclimatization

Day 14- 40 : Climbing period of Lhotse and Back to Base Camp

Day 41- 43 : Trek to Namche Bazaar via Dingboche and Thyangboche

Day 44-45 : Trek to Phakding and Lukla

Day 46 : Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 47 : Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 48 : Final Departure

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